Day 69 Ihaha Campsite, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Took some time to repack the new Landy – even though they are the same model the space configuration is totally different. The drive to Kazungula Ferry was quite short and we were at the Zambian immigration by 10.15.  As per our previous experience it was pretty chaotic – long queue of lorries, lots of touts, guys offering to guard cars or guide you through the process.  As usual we tried to avoid everyone but in the end one of the lads who latched onto us proved very helpful as he did expertly guide us to all the different buildings for immigration, taxes, ferries etc so we didn’t feel aggrieved at paying him in the end. 

The ferry crossing was very efficient and we were soon crossing the Zambezi to Botswana.  Ian had driven onto the ferry and I had had to walk on after two large lorries so it wasn’t until we got to the other side that Ian knew I had made it across.

Botswana immigration was so much smoother than Zambia – one building to deal with passports, importing of vehicles and the various taxes / insurance that you need to pay.  By 11.30 we were back on the road and heading to Kasane for shopping, money, petrol and beer.  Only one snag!  Despite being assured that we could buy alcohol in Botswana on a Sunday, you can’t so we headed off to Chobe with a grumpy Ian and the prospect of no beer for 5 days!

Arrived in Chobe later than we had hoped but still managed to do a bit of a game drive down to the campsite.  There were hundreds of elephant along the river front – absolutely colossal numbers. 

The road to the camp was really deep sand in places so it took some time to drive (aka slip and swerve).  Arriving at camp we were warned that our campsite was a favourite haunt of a large baboon troop – deep joy!  Luckily they seemed to have found a better home for tonight so we were able to enjoy a baboon free evening watching zebra and buffalo along the river front. 

Ihaha camp also has a bit of a reputation for night raids of the campsite from Namibia – we were interested to see that Botswana takes this quite seriously as there were 3 members of the defense force on duty.

Just as it was going dark a herd of 20 elephants raced down to the water through a gap on the other side of the tree that we were parked next to.  Tea was eventually eaten in the dark watching the silhouettes of the elephants munching the grass along the river bank, and Ian spotted a genet in the torch light.

Onwards to Botswana

Looking forward to visiting Botswana as we have heard fantastic reports about the wildlife in Chobe and the Okavango Delta.  As we are only spending two weeks here we have restricted our visit to the north of this vast country!

Days 69-72: Chobe National Park
Days 73-77: Moremi Park
Days 78-81: Salt Pans
Day 82-83: Maun

Reflections on Zambia

We have enjoyed our stay in Zambia and although we have been here three weeks feel that we have only scratched the surface of this vast country, and clearly need to learn the Zambian rules on draughts. 

The parks that we have visited have been superb and we have witnessed some amazing spectacles – the bat migration was particularly remarkable.  The campsites stand out as they have all been fantastic and in impressive locations, and the attendants who look after them have all been terrific – they are certainly the best kept campsites we have visited.

Mosi-oa-tunya (Victoria Falls) is absolutely amazing and definitely worth seeing even at this time of year when there is no water flowing over the Zambian side.  We could have spent a few more days here without any trouble – maybe we will return to ride the rapids one day.

There is much talk here about recent issues with the value of Kwacha – we still don’t actually know what has happened or what exactly the exchange rate has dropped to but the price of food is increasing rapidly and is already causing problems.  The contrast between the north and the south has been quite marked with the north being much more rural and dependent on subsistence farming than the south which is more developed with large farms and industry.  We also heard a lot of discussion about the potential of Zambia not being fulfilled – this is definitely a country with huge mineral wealth and increased scope for tourism so hopefully the potential will be fulfilled in the next few years.

Day 68 Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone

A day of swimming over and under the falls planned.  Arrived at he falls at 9 am ready for the walk to Livingstone Island and swim in the “Devil’s Pool”.  The walk was a bit of a route march as we started a bit late and the guide was clearly on a tight schedule.   The walk is only possible in the dry season when there is no water on the Zambian side of Mosi-oa-Tunya (smoke that thunders).  The dry river bed was quite fascinating with all the holes in the rocks.  We got to swim a short stretch in the upper Zambezi to reach the rocks next to the pool.  Arriving at Devil’s pool there was a group in front and a bit like a conveyor belt we had to wait our turn before entering.  Watching the guide standing right on the edge taking photos was pretty scary.  Eventually we got our turn to sit on the very edge of the falls and get a superb view of the rainbow and thundering falls a few metres away.  Lying on the edge looking over was fun and nowhere near as scary as it sounds.

We spent the hour in between activities roaming the park on the Zambian side of the falls.  The views down the gorge were much better than we had seen on the Zim side and must be stunning when the river is in full flow. 

Our afternoon trip to swim under the falls started with a steep descent down into the gorge, with steps at the top and ending with a tricky clamber over rocks to reach an inflatable raft we’d use to paddle “Up” the Zambezi.  We paddled across the “Boiling Pot” and had a fabulous view up the rapids towards the Zim side of falls. We then clamoured over more rocks to reach the Eastern Cataract where we got to swim under the Victoria Falls - awesome!!  Unfortunately after two months of traveling we’ve both forgotten how to swim so life-jackets compulsory. We even got to swim/float in the “Boiling Pot” on the paddle back – good way to cool down before the steep climb back out of the gorge.

Day 67 Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone

Tried to emulate Robson Green and go “Extreme fishing” for Tiger fish on the Zambezi before breakfast.  A fun two hours catching lots of rock and mud fish followed but we didn’t get the big one (or even a small one!).  We really enjoyed it though but don’t think Jane will be taking up fishing at home.

Met up with Kevin again to sort out a few final bits about the Botswana leg of the trip and agreed that we would be swapping vehicles.  So we said goodbye “Thomson” and hello “Attenborough”.  Rest of afternoon spent updating the blog and sorting out the landrover as all our kit had to be move.

Sunset cruise down the Zambezi was beautiful – lots of hippo and crocs plus we saw a giant kingfisher, eagle owl, green back heron  (quite tricky to spot in the photo), zebra and a couple of elephants in the Zim park which is on the opposite side of the river to our lodge.

 The sunset itself was also pretty spectacular.

Day 66 Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone

Met with Kevin from Safari Drive to discuss our Landrover and the rest of the trip.  Looks like we may be saying goodbye to “Thomson” as his our list of ‘snags’ is getting ever longer and Kevin has suggested that we swop vehicles – a final decision will be made tomorrow. 

Decided to visit the Victoria Falls from the Zimbawean side as we had been told there was not much water on the Zambian side.  Got stamped out of Zambia and walked over the bridge to Zimbawe – loads of lorries parked up waiting to get in and lots of guys trying to sell us billion dollar Zim notes for ten US dollars (we declined!!).  From the bridge we could see that the Zambian side of the falls were actually completely dry so were glad we had decided to go to Zim.

The park around the falls in Zim was a lot bigger than we had realised and you get to walk through the rain forest caused by the constant spray from the falls.  The falls themselves were probably not quite as impressive as they would be after the rains but they are still amazing.

With the awesome falls photographed we walked up the old and definitely very posh Victoria Falls Hotel to rewarded ourselves with a decadent cocktail sitting on their terrace (and a Zambezi beer – you have to try these things!) all paid for in US$ rather than billion dollar Zim notes.

Day 65 Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone

Very long day’s drive on a damp and dreary grey day.  We hit Lusaka at morning rush hour and tried to find a garage that would supply an indicator light cover – not a good combination and we failed to find anywhere that had such items.  Stopped on route in a small town for brunch and ended up having pizza which was a bit bizarre.  Rest of the journey was just long and dull but the clouds finally cleared about 50 km from Livingstone.  Livingstone itself is really modern compared to everywhere else we have been on this trip – they even have “kerbistones” and pavements. 

The lodge is about 30 minutes drive outside Livingstone on the Zambezi River and we have the “Swallow” chalet which is the most secluded chalet right on the river front – it has a superb view.