Day 22 Mikumi Campsite

Lovely breakfast watching the waves – the wind had eased so the ocean was much calmer and there were lots of dhou dotted on the horizon.  Left The Tides at 8ish having picked up the damp laundry, and headed back to Pangani to catch the ferry.  Long, long drive along the Tanga to Dar-es-Salaam road – loads of lorries but it is the bus drivers that are really scary overtaking “any time, any place, anywhere!!”.  Decided to buy some fruit from the road side and found the entire cab was filled with packs of oranges and cashew nuts – managed to escape having just bought one big bag of oranges.  Further down the road we tried again but this time to get charcoal – not sure we should be buying charcoal from an environmental perspective but not sure the wood alternative is a lot better.

Reached Morogoro at about 4pm and really needed to find a supermarket but failed miserably and wasted a good hour in the process going round in circles. If we had wanted motorcycle parts, petrol, sofas or bricks we would have been fine but no-one seems to eat.  By now we were concerned that we still had miles to go and had no clue where the campsite was.  With the road going straight through the middle of Mikumi National Park, 40 mph speed restrictions were in place all the way through the park section and for once everyone was sticking rigidly to them. We think it was the fear of the penalties that could be imposed for running over a wild animal – $450 for a baboon but $15,000 for an elephant.  As a result we were still driving through the park in the dark (scary when the lorry coming the other has no lights on!!). Driving at night is a very big no no and we missed the signs for the campsite.  Rather than turn back, we chose to keep going on with the hope that we would find somewhere to stay once we got outside the park.  Luckily the strategy worked and we ended up spending the night at a campsite a joining the Tan Swiss lodge (with Bar – don’t you just love it when a plan comes together!!).  It had taken us over ten and a half hours driving to get from Tides to here so the last thing we felt like doing was cooking. We spent a surreal evening having dinner (peppered steak and Tanzania equivalent of Biryani) in the bar surrounding by pictures of Switzerland with Richard Hammond on the TV – weird.

Day 21 – The Tides

A quick swim in the Indian Ocean before breakfast and then lazing by the Ocean for the rest of the day – finally a chance to relax and not get in the Landrover at all.  Our beachside cottage is literally 20 paces from the Ocean and we can listen to the waves lapping from our room.  It is a beautiful, idyllic spot with a palm tree lined white sandy beach – truly fantastic!  

In the afternoon we went for a kayak – not good at this lying around even if it only for a day.  The kayak was fun but hard work as the wind had got up.  It all went really well until we had to get into shore – I am sure the bar staff were highly amused when I turned upside down and landed in a pile of seaweed with the kayak on top of me.  Ian assures me he was coming to my rescue but by the time I surfaced I could only see him laughing! 

Excellent evening meal to finish the day.  Up early again tomorrow as we are back on the road. Hopefully our laundry will be ready - it was not cheap at $2 an item but they will have had to work hard to get it clean with the amount of dust and grim covering it all and at least it means we don't have to do any washing for a few days now.

Day 20 – Indian Ocean, The Tides

Supposed to leave by 7 am but the delay getting the Landrover back yesterday from the garage meant that it was just gone 8 am but the time we eventually set off having repacked everything and tried to clean some of the dust out of “Thompson”.  We knew we had a long 7–8 hour journey ahead of us and we had to reach Pangani on the coast in time to catch the ferry across the river - so we were against the clock.  The first part of the journey was painfully slow due to : incessant police checks (including our first out and out request for a bribe “do you have a present for me…” – politely answered as “No !!”) ;  speed bumps and 50 kph signs (we still ignored the cow crossing signs!).  Just as we thought we might make some time up they then decided to remake the road so we ended up stuck on a slow going temporary gravel road for km after km weaving around a traffic jam of lorry’s.  On the bright side the scenery was spectacular – we did managed to get a glimpse of Kilimanjaro for a moment when the clouds lifted.  Ian was quick to point out that we might not have climbed to the top of it but we have managed to get to the bottom of a fair number of Kilimanjaro beers instead! 

We are no longer in the Maasai lands so it was interesting to see the difference in culture – the houses were more brick built but we certainly got a lot fewer waves from the people we passed.  The agriculture also changed from livestock rearing to agriculture and huge sisel plantations.

Eventually made it to Pangani ferry for 4.30 – it was extremely busy but unbelievably efficient and within minutes we had tickets and were boarded.  

We arrived at The Tides Lodge about half an hour later and a well earned cocktail - in total it had taken 9 hours of pretty much non stop driving to get here.

Day 19 - Rivertrees, Arusha

Long journey back to Arusha – we left at 7 am to get back as early as possible so that we could to get the Landrover checked over.  A long 7 hour journey followed and pretty uneventful journey except getting stopped at lots of police check points and advised by a very nice policeman at one checkpoint to get our now very dirty landrover cleaned and then nicked for speeding at another one.  Apparently you are supposed to slow down to 50 kph at warning signs for cows and we were doing 64 kph (40 mph) – as there are cows everywhere we thought this was a little unlikely but paid up anyway.  The guys at Safari Drive said it was a new one on them but anything seems to go at the moment in the run up to the election.
Arrive in Arusha to a flurry of activity - landrover off to the garage to get the diff lock checked out, fridge fixed and temporary radiator hose replaced whilst tent also sent off to also have a few repairs done to it.
After landrover returned and a mad dash by Safari Drive as tent rods still missing - it is now 10pm and hopefully everything now working for the trip south tomorrow as it will be another early start and long drive!

Day 18 Lake Natron Tented Camp

Jane feeling dodgy again and she had to finally resort to Imodium after seven days – ironic considering we now have an ensuite loo.  Morning trip to the lake with one of the local guides to see the flamingos – the walk across the lake was horribly hot but the views from the top of a rocky outcrop were amazing of the volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai.  

On the way back to the truck we were ambushed by a group of Maasai girls selling necklaces – highly amusing discussion for the half mile walk.  Feel a bit guilty for not buying anything as they were all lovely but we did give them some water.  Relaxing few hours over the middle of the day – I tried to recuperate whilst Ian did the washing.  After lunch which I missed (Ian had a three course meal) we took on a 45 minute walk (read cross between scramble and coasteering) up to the waterfalls above the lake with our guide Korianga.

Absolutely fantastic wild swimming spot.  As with the best swimming pools, you start with a cold shower from spring water casading down intio the ravine from some 20m  above - then into the warm waters in the river – tried to swim to the falls we got within 2m but the current was unbelievably strong sweeping you back down the ravine ready for another go.  Back at camp in the evening we had a long chat with a group of Americans who had climbed the volcano the night before - by the sound of it they were lucky to survive.  One fell down a ravine and it took 2 hours to find him, they all ran out of water to the extent that one of the guys was severely hallucinating - mental note to self do not add this to wish list of things to do in the future!

Day 17 – Lake Natron Tented Camp

Awoken at 1 am by wind howling and strange ticking sound – thought a hyena or honey badger was attacking the tyres.  Ian eventually got up to check and tie everything down – no sign of any animals but we had forgotten to put the awning up and did have a flat tyre.  Eventually got back to sleep but knew that we had a fun start to the day changing the tyre.  After our delayed start got to Klein’s Gate an hour late but luckily the official was kind and didn’t charge us the extra day.

Journey to Lake Natron was very long with difficult roads – seriously corrugated and potholed.  Ian did most of the driving but handed over to me when he thought we were over the worst.  Of course this meant that the road deteriorated completely!  It was not helped when the truck in front had a flat and Ian generously offered a couple of the guys a lift to the next village so not only was the driving tough but I was now driving to an audience.  Eventually I stalled on a seriously uphill bit and Ian sensibly decided he better take back over and I’m glad he did as the road got even worse.

Finally made it to the camp 8.5 hours after leaving Lobo.  The camp is pretty basic and rustic but has a shower with hot water and a flushing loo!!  We also had a large lizard and small frog in the bathroom – the frog disappeared for a bit but glad to say the lizard hasn’t eaten him as he has reappeared.

Day 16 Serengeti - Lobo Hill

Decided to have a last attempt to get a good view of a wildebeest crossing before the long journey back to Lobo.  Headed north along the river the opposite way to yesterday and miraculously soon came across a large group  building on the opposite bank.  This time we were determined to get the etiquette right – we sat at the top of the slope behind another van and waited, and waited, and waited!  We are not cut out for this sport, we both got really bored! But suddenly we were off, a wildebeest made a move and the engines started, we waited for a few more then everyone reved their engines and were off down the hill.  This time we got a great view and some fab photos (well I did – Ian is spitting feathers as his camera wouldn’t focus).

Headed back to Lobo – pretty uneventful journey but did meet the guys from a couple of days ago again and are glad to report that they found Lucas!  Still no idea what they were doing in the middle of nowhere, this time they had a bible and spear rather than mobile phones – really odd.  Back at Lobo we agreed with the ranger we could camp at Lobo Hills special campsite for the night (we had already been to check it was empty this time).  Really beautiful site overlooking the hills of Lobo with antelope and zebra walking through.  Finally could face more than plain potatoes or pasta so cooked a butternut squash curry – probably not the wisest choice but it was really tasty.

Day 15 Serengeti - Kogatende

Woken at 6am but the sound of hammering – later found out the workmen were burning wood to heat up the rocks at the end of the runway in order to smash them up and extend the runway. Went for earlyish game drive with plan to eat breakfast on route.  Crossed the Mara River on a narrow concrete bridge and were overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of wildebeest on the plains on the other side of the river – thousands upon thousand of them.  Came back across the river to see if we could see any potential wildebeest crossings.  On route we saw a zebra carcass up a tree but no leopard.  

Headed for same spot as yesterday but no sign of wildebeest but on way back suddenly saw a group looking as though they would cross – we had prime position but within minutes a dozen safari vehicles arrived all parked at the top of the slope.  The crossing started and we had a fab view, however, no-one had told us the next bit of etiquette – once the crossing starts you are free to drive like a complete maniac to get to the point they are coming ashore.  We were left to watch the dust cloud block out our beautiful view.  We moved on to find another vantage point, only here we were kindly informed “your car is white” – very astute I thought and replied “I know, I can’t exactly change the colour can I”.  Not sure English sarcasm goes down too well.  Apparently we are supposed to hide the white vehicle behind a bush to avoid scaring the wildebeest – not sure what driving like a maniac down a slope towards them does but thought I had better not say that!

Afternoon spent at the campsite, sort of relaxing (about 30 minutes relaxation time allowed!) but did manage to have a shower. Yet another bland dinner although Ian’s didn’t look too appetising – wondering whether I can market the Serengeti diet.

Day 14 Serengeti - Kogatende

Left Lobi by 7.30am for long drive to Kogatende on the Mara River with no idea as to whether we would have anywhere to camp that night or not.  First part of journey to Klein’s Camp Gate uneventful but then finding the actual road to Kogatende proved a little tricky.  Our first attempt took us to an impassable brook after about 9km so we headed back to find the alternative route on the map.  Reached that but were just pondering which of two tracks was the road when some locals came past and told us that no-one used that road anymore and we needed a track 200 m back – luckily another guy in a truck volunteered to show us which the track – we would never have found it ourselves.   Saw loads of wildebeest on route plus a group of vultures tucking into dinner.  

Most amusing part of journey was about 30km from Kogatende – we had seen no-one for 2 hours when we came upon 3 guys in the middle of the road – all with their mobile phones.  Slightly hesitantly we slowed down and bizarrely one of them said “We are waiting for Lucas – have you seen him?”.  We will spend the rest of the trip wondering who Lucas is and whether they ever met up with him.

Arriving at Kogatende, a safari drive advised us that a river crossing was about to happen about 3km down river so we headed straight off.  No-one had told us the etiquette and we almost certainly scared the wildebeest who were grouping at the river front – a driver told us that everyone parks at the top of the slope where you get a good view and don’t scare the wildebeest.  We waited for ages to see whether they would regroup and cross but to no avail – I don’t think I have the patience for the sport of wildebeest crossing spotting. 

Back to the ranger post to see if we could get a camp site (seriously had our fingers crossed as it was a very long drive back to Lobo).  Luckily the ranger was happy to show us to an “extra” camp site – a spot right on the banks of the River Mara.  Also close to the road and on the flight path but we were happy.  Interesting evening listening to hippos in the river and a large group of workmen chopping wood – not great when you are still suffering from jippy tummy but it certainly ensures you lose any inhibitions.  

Day 13 Serengeti - Lobo public campsite

Up at 5 am ready to be picked up at 5.30 for balloon safari.  The ballooning operation here is huge – there were three massive balloons each taking a basket of 16 plus the pilot, Abeid. The flight was spectacular and everything that we had hoped for. The views across the Serengeti were awe inspiring and we got to see dozens of hippos as well as lions, cheetah, hyenas plus loads of gazelles.  At the end of the flight we had the surreal experience of champagne and full English breakfast served in the middle of the Serengeti with our group from the balloon who were mainly Americans with a couple from Netherlands.

After breakfast we headed back to our landrover for a rapid pack up and the journey north to Lobo on a horrendously corrugated road.  We were supposed to be booked into a Special Campsite in Kogatende for 3 nights and then Lobo for 1 night but the tourist office had booked us into Lobo for 4 nights but we wouldn’t have made it all the way so we were thankful to be able to stop the night in Lobo.  At Lobo we followed the signs to Lobo Special Campsite 1 but frustratingly found a large tented camp pitched there so off to the Ranger’s post.  The Ranger helpfully said he would show us to a lovely campsite at Lobo Hill so he jumped in to direct us.  The lovely site turned out to be occupied as well – amusingly this time we disturbed a South African couple having a romatic afternoon in their roof tent! So perhaps third time lucky the ranger knew another site but after 30 minutes of driving round in circles off road through dense bush we decided to camp at the public site back in Lobo which still had nice views if a little less private. 

Day 12 Serengeti – Sero Extra Special Campsite

Awake half the night due to lions roaring very close to camp and certainly not the night to get jippy tummy but eventually lions or no lions we had no choice but to get up.  In the morning we drove around the kopje and found the pride of lions happily tucking into breakfast!   

Morning spent driving slowly northwards rhino spotting – we had literally given up when we saw a group of safari trucks and there was an elusive black rhino.  Similarly just as we got to Seronera, there were dozens of safari trucks with everyone watching a leopard in a tree.  So a bit disappointing that we didn’t spot them ourselves but at least we did see them and having seen almost no wildlife yesterday we saw the big five all before lunch today. 

At Seronera we restocked on water and fuel – no-one self drives in Tanzania we have discovered so nowhere to buy any fresh food though.  Asked in the tourist office where our campsite for the night was but he had no idea, so we set off looking for the Sero Extra.  After an hour we headed back to the Tourist office and this time found the Head of the Tourist Office – apparently Extra just means they will try to find you something when you arrive!  So we headed off with the Head of the Tourist Office and a Balloon Safari Driver (so he could find us in the morning) so find a place to camp literally in the middle of nowhere next to a tree.  By the time we had taken the guys back to base and retraced our steps to our camping spot, it was pretty late and a storm was brewing so no tea tonight.

Day 11 Serengeti – Moru Kopje

Today was supposed to be a gentle relaxing day.  The morning started as planned with a leisurely breakfast watching a troop of baboons in the trees and rocks around the camp.  We set off a 9 am for a short drive around the kopjes – absolutely no wildlife except a couple of ostriches bonking!!  We were impressed with our navigation skills as we managed to reach the rangers post despite the map and the roads seeming to be completely at odds.  We had an interesting talk by one of the 60 rangers on the Moru Black Rhino Project – there are apparently 35 Rhino in the area not that we have managed to see any.

We then drove to view some Maasai rock art and Ngong Rock which looks like (is!!) Simba Rock from the Lion King.  Refreshed after a vergmite lunch we planned to go rhino spotting but, the best laid plans, 10 minutes down the track we got stuck in the mud, not helped by the diff lock on the landrover not working (our ongoing equipment saga).  Ian tried to dig us out, jacking up the rear wheels to get firewood under them to get some grip, with me on lion watch duty - but all to no avail.  After well over an hour of wallowing in mud we eventually accepted defeat and phoned Liz at Safari Drive to get her to phone a ranger.  45 mins later we were pulled out but not by the ranger – finally another safari group decided to visit Ngong rock and they had the entertainment of watching us get towed out of the thick ouzy black mud. 

Having had enough excitement for one day we returned to camp for our first bush shower – I was impressed it was good enough to get all the mud off Ian. We managed to rustle up quite a successful corn beef hash – the lack of a fridge is making for an interesting diet.

Day 10 Serengeti – Moru Kopje Special Campsite No. 3

Up early for mad dash to Naabi Gate – deadline of 8.30 to be stamped out of the Ngorongoro Conservation or risk having to pay for another full day so left camp at 7 am.  We’d been warned that the road was terrible and it was but we did pass a grader so it was perhaps not as bad as it could have been.  Managed to arrive at the gate by 8.20 but were still late going through the actual gate by the time all the paperwork was done – luckily they let us off the 10 minutes.

The Serengeti lived up to its reputation for lions – less than two hours in to the park and we had seen 19.  Two male lions asleep behind of kopje and then 30 yards further on another 2 young males and a young lioness – not sure they were aware of the two large male lions around the corner.  30 minutes later we spotted a large pride of 14 lions on a hillock and watched as one by one they came down and crossed the road 2 yards in front of us.

First of seven nights camping in the bush tonight – our campsite is in the Moru Kopje area of the park (special campsite no. 3). Just before setting camp we went for a short drive up the track and  spotted a cheetah hunting gazelle for dinner but they got away this time. 

We are literally camped next to a large kopje with views of the Serengeti plains in front. Finally managed to light a decent fire and have some edible food – difficult to do anything wrong with pasta and tomato sauce with tinned peaches for pudding. Typing the blog in the roof tent listening to the sounds of the Serengeti below.

Day 9 Olduvai Tented Camp

The day started badly – no water in the radiator reservoir.  We were clearly even luckier to get out of the crater yesterday than we had realised but also really fortunate that there was a fuel station at the Ngorongoro headquarters 10 mins down the road with a mechanic.  An hour later and $30 worse off the hose to the radiator had been replaced.  Today’s lesson is to negotiate the price before they do the work – they wanted to charge $50!

Drive to Olduvai was along a horrendously corregated road so it was really back jarringly slow.  Visited the Olduvai museum and viewed the gorge where Mary Leakey discovered the oldest remains of man.  Interesting to hear the history of all the discoveries and to hear how it was completely by chance that the remains in the gorge were discovered in the first place – a German entomologist chasing butterflies in about 1911.

Arrived at camp at 2pm – another amazing tented lodge set on a kopjie with spectacular views.  Washing and car checks done so we actually have time to sit and enjoy a beer.  Looking forward to a sunset walk with the maasai before dinner. 

Day 8 Ngorongoro Crater

Topped up with fuel, driven to the park entrance and with permit paid and in hand ready to go? No, hold everything - permit not stamped back to the office!! Issue rectified and ready to go?  No, hold everything - camping permit for 2 days not one!! Issue rectified paperwork all completed in triplicate and were off ascending up a twisting, steep road, with forest either side, through thick cloud to eventually emerge on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater to spectacular views in bright sunshine. Then a quick 50 minute bone shaking drive round the lip of the crater before more paperwork and finally descending down the steepest track we’ve been on so far into the crater itself.

The crater itself was not really what we expected to start with but we did eventually find: huge herds of wilderbeast and zebras; Warthogs a plenty; elephant; hyenas which seemed to thrive here along with tow pods of hippos and small pride of lions.  

So if you have to, where should you break down?  The middle of Ngorongoro Crater surrounded by lions with one sitting in the shadow of your Landrover next to the back wheel (Ian was very upset that I wouldn't open the window to take her photo!).  It will certainly make our visit memorable. Luckily we managed to fix the problem without having to get out - a loose battery connection!! But all not before we had entertained the people in 3 safari vehicles.

After 6 hours in the crater we made our back up to the rim and the Simba campsite.  Pretty basic site full of overlanders.  Our saga with equipment continued with the fridge packing up so all the meat had to be thrown away – tea was pretty rubbish and we need to work out how to cook some descent food with the tinned supplies we have.

Day 7, Tarangire to Bashay Rift Lodge

Woken by the amazing sounds of the bush at sunrise.  Breakfast of fried sausages before packing up camp.  It seemed to take us for ever to pack everything up and check over the landrover so in the end we didn't leave Kanga camp til gone 10am.   Stopped to watch a large herd of giraffes on the way to the gate.

Drive to Bashay took us through lots of Masai villages - the land has been grazed dry and as a result there were dozens of dust vortexes on route.  Arrived at Karatu at 2.20 to go through the complex procedure to get our pass for Ngorongoro Conservation - you have to deposit the cash in dollars at a bank and then drive 2km down the road with your deposit slip to hand it to the NCCA headquarters.

Bashay Rift Lodge proved to be extremely difficult to find - not helped by our GPS not working but after one completely wrong turn (much to the amusement of the locals who clearly knew we were in totally the wrong place) we found the lodge.  Fantastic views over the rift towards the crater.  We managed a few laps of the pool as the sun was setting - very beautiful.

Day 6. Kanga Special Campsite, Tarangire

Drove along the Burungi Lake circuit but very little wildlife except a few dik dik and swarms of tetse flies so headed north back to the main gate where suddenly we were engulfed by safari tour vehicles.  The highlight of the morning was a tree full of vultures.  Headed back to our campsite for the night – it was a cleared area in amongst some trees 4km off the main track.  As soon as we arrived we saw a herd of elephants just outside the camp area, but we unpacked, put up the tent and started preparing dinner.  Just as we were getting ready to eat, another herd of elephants decided to come right into camp and we were forced to sit in the landrover to wait for them to move on which turned out to be an hour and a half later with the sun about to set.  We were privileged to watch 3 very young baby elephants playing right in front of us, however, eating dinner in the dark on our first night camping “wild” and “unfenced” had not been part of the plan.  

Day 5. Maweninga, Tarangire

Woken at 4am to the sound of smashing plates and glasses – turned out it was a honey badger, clearly desperate for a drink. The night camera we placed out actually caught the naughty culprit and also a leopard less than 5m from our room.  Fuel arrived so we felt happier with a fuller tank of diesel. 

On our morning drive we saw two young cheetahs followed by two “Tree Climbing” lionesses lying in the branch of a tree.  We then drove to Salima Swamp where there were massive herds of wildebeast and zebras plus hundreds of elephant.  After lunch, I ended up driving on the road less travelled – we soon realised why as it had been washed away in places so my 4x4 skills were severely tested.  Eventually Ian had to come to the rescue when I finally got stuck in a ravine and get us back on track- with landrover intact.

Day 4. Maweninga, Tarangire

Aimed to get up at 6.15, ready for 6.30 breakfast and set off for game drive by 7am, however, vehicle checks and pack lunch making delayed us by 30 mins – must get in to safari mode and get up earlier.  The morning drive took us around Tarangire Hill and down to the river and we were able to meander along each of the circuits along the riverside northwards.  Ian spotted a spotted hyena asleep on the far bank of the river but wildlife was quite sparse during the morning in general with a few elephant, zebras and Thomson gazelle.  We stopped at the Matete picnic spot with magnificent views over the river and then swapped drivers and I had my first taste of driving Thomson the Tank Engine – he is well named!  Ian’s navigation skills were somewhat dubious either that or he was purposefully finding roads to test my 4x4 driving skills.  Wildlife was much more abundant with large herds of zebra and wilderbeest everywhere.  With them of course came the safari vehicles which whizzed past us in convoy on their way to some sighting further south – we ignored them and meandered along.  We did eventually reach what we assumed they had been racing off for – a cheetah and her 2 cubs.  

Day 3 Rivertrees to Maweninga Tented Camp, Tarangire

Morning spent getting money and groceries in Arusha – managed to spend a staggering three quarters of a million Tanzania Shillings!  Packing everything into Thomson was a bit of a struggle but eventually we were sorted and started the journey south to Tarangire.  The drive out of Arusha took us through the town and past a fascinating array of bed shops. But the scenery soon changed from the lush agricultural land surrounding Arusha to the more classic dry savannah.  We also entered the Masai homelands with village after village, and numerous colourful gatherings.  Tanzania is apparently the land of the sleeping policemen – they seemed to appear every few hundred yards and were so enormous that they severely happen your progress and often forced you almost to a stop to get over them. We did get stopped by one real policeman but he was friendlier than his sleeping counterparts. 

Biggest issue of the day was the alarming rate we were getting through fuel so by the time we reached the Tarangire gate we were seriously worried as the park has no fuel.  We were advised that we might be able to get someone to sell us some so we went in, having paid the exorbitant park fees - $540 for 4 days!  We meandered our way down to the lodge – starting slowly and stopping to watch the wildlife before we realised that we actually needed to get a shift on or we would miss the park curfew of 6pm.  We finally made it to the tented camp at 5.50 having negotiated some tough road conditions and swarms of tetse flies (for once we were forced to shut the windows and turn on the aircon).

The lodge is amazing with our tent on the top of the kopjie (huge rock) overlooking the Lake Burungi and we watched the sunset over the lake before dinner.  Luckily during dinner we were assured by the manager that we would be able to get some diesel from the lodge drivers the next day.

Day 2. Lazy day at Rivertrees

Morning spent running through the first two weeks itinerary with Liz and Mike from Safari Drive and meeting “Thomson” our Landrover that will be home for the next few months.  Lazy afternoon planned but instead we decided to go for a bike ride thinking it would be a couple of kilometres around the back lanes – how wrong we were!  Two hours of seriously strenuous mountain biking followed – it was fantastic (Ian is exhausted) and the guide even asked if I would come back as he had enjoyed actually getting to do some proper cycling.  Not sure whether the strange looks that I was getting was due to:  the completely inappropriate vest top I was wearing; the bright orange trainers or just what is that mad woman doing on a mountain bike!!  

Day 1. Northwich to Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha

Long day of travelling to reach Tanzania, where will we spend the next month (thank you Greg for sorting the maps).

Days 1-2: Arusha. 
Days 3-6: Tarangire Park. 
Days 7-9: Ngorongoro Concession. 
Days 10-17: Serengeti Park. 
Days 18-19: Lake Natron. 
Day 20: Arusha. 
Days 21-22: Pangina and the Indian Ocean. 
Days 23-27: Iringa and Ruaha Park. 

Manchester airport excelled itself - over an hour for the baggage drop and then my camera bag got pulled over in security with a complete jobsworth insisting that the entire bag was emptied to put everything through individually!  So having arrived 2 hours early we made it through just in time for the last boarding call.  Luckily the rest of the journey was really smooth.  Top tip when entering Tanzania – make sure, unlike the America lady in front of us, that you have the address where you are staying instead of insisting that the friends you’re staying with don’t have one!!!  We arrived at Rivertrees Lodge in time for pizza and beer before an early night - 16 hours travelling door to door taking its toll.