Up at 5.30 but it still took us till 8 am to leave as we
ended up chatting for ages to two other couples. The plan was to do a game drive on the way
out of the park but in the end we cut this short and headed out as we couldn’t
get close to the river, and apart from dozens of warthog there was not a huge
amount to see. Also Ian has managed to injured
his shoulder so the bulk of the driving would be down to me which meant it
would take quite a bit longer to get anywhere.
Having skipped breakfast, we decided to stop in Liwonde for
brunch at a little roadside café. It
seemed a bit early for chicken and chips but it was scrummy – even if a bit
disconcerting to have your chicken’s brothers and sisters clucking around the
floor of the cafe.
The drive down to Zomba was actually quite short with the
last few miles being very steep to get up onto the 1700m high Zomba plateau. For once not having a map proved a bit tricky
and we were for a while slightly misplaced and “teddy bears were thrown out the
pram” with Jane driving up a never ending, extremely steep and bumpy forestry
track with no idea where it ended - but it was actually the right road and we
finally emerged at the top of the plateau. With views across Zomba and the
plains below (even if a bit hazy) we checked out both the viewpoints: one named
after Emperor Halle Salassie and the other after the Queen Mother – the
Emperor’s view was definitely the better one.
The mountain is essentially an
active forestry reserve and with Malawi’s deforestation issues we were shocked
by the amount of timber left lying around despite the locals bringing chopped
wood down the mountain balanced on pedal bikes – this seemed like a
particularly gruelling job.
We had been warned that the Trout Farm campsite had seen
much better days and was over-run with baboons.
However, we thought it was a lovely site, set in the woods, and not a
baboon in sight. The trout farm itself
was no longer in operation but we were told that it was planned to restock it
with trout in the next couple of months. Ian found a good use for the farm's water
channel though to cool the beer!
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