Day 54 Kanunshya Bush Camp

Today is Zambia Independence Day - 51 years.  As the rest of Zambia celebrate we have a whole day with absolutely nothing to do except watch hippos, and I have no book to read!  We cooked a full breakfast, followed by yet another shower as we were feeling guilty that the lads looking after the campsite had heated the water again. 

Ian spent the afternoon asleep in his hammock whilst I attempted to bake bread in a potje.  Ian was very rude about my bread rolls saying that it would make a good cricket ball but I was quite impressed that it did actually taste like bread even if it was a bit hard to slice. 

Just as we were going to bed, Ian noticed that the ground was covered in small red scorpions and even bigger black ones hiding in their holes – wearing flip flops at night is probably not that wise!

Day 53 Kanunshya Bush Camp

Up early watching the local wildlife and a small stream of locals walking past our camp site to go fishing and brave enough not to worry about the crocodiles. With the camp packed and breakfast consumed ready for a long days drive further north decided to tackle the small matter of the missed 4x4 track, with camp staff pointing the way we crossed the river bed and headed off round the 6km track – plenty of wildlife to see and a very large pod of hippos as the highlight at the end of the trail.

Back on the main dirt road heading north and signed in by rangers to Transit through Luambe national park and understood no fees were due. Whilst Jane did the honours filling in our details in the inevitable ledger – I helped improve international UK- Zambia relations via an impromptu few games of draughts!! However whilst the board may look the same and the improvised bottle top counters start in the same places after that the Zambian rules diverge somewhat from the classis English game with reserve jumping allowed and kings that can traverse the board in a single move – hence duely thrashed. 2^nd game closer and with a little advice for some onlookers held out for a draw.

Back on the road and having transited the Luambe park in less than an hour we are trapped at the exit gate as ranger insisted that we must pay for a full days park fees some $45, whilst we insist no fees are due as per advice at entrance gate and guide books! 20 minutes of heated discussions, reviewing of paperwork, a compromise is reached, we pay for the car +1 passenger and hand over $30 and get on our way.

As we head north from Luambe, villages start getting more numerous and in inverse proportion the width of the road gets narrower and narrower until its down status of local track and just about wide enough for the landrover, we even had our picture taken by one of the local villagers on this mobile – we must be a novelty!! Finally reached Kanunshya scout camp gate to pick up a game Scout who’ll direct us to the camp site. Whilst waiting inundated by children and villagers after 15 minutes we have Game Scout on board and set off on the last 6km to the camp site. With the track non-existent in places we’d have struggled to find the camp but finally arrive at Kanunshya camp which overlooks a pod of over 200 hippos majestically swimming in water pool on a bend in the river. Whilst this is an awesome sight – there are some slight draw backs – i) hippos are definitely not the quietest animals around and tend to only have one volume setting “say it loud” ii) with the river dried up water in the hippo pool is limited but the volume of hippo excrement isn’t and the reminders of farmyard smells back home come to mind.  Sausage and bean casserole for tea, showered and an early night in an very hot tent, but woken by rain showers in the night - not a good sign with our plans to travel further north.

Day 52 Kalovia Bush Camp

Morning walk with Bertram our guide plus Peter at the front with the gun and Boyd at the back so he can get eaten first! Another quiet day but Bertram showed us lots of insects and birds instead.  The nesting Carmine Bee-eaters were particularly spectacular.  Peter also spotted a Monitor Lizard disappearing down a hole in a tree in search of its dinner

Headed off at 10.30 – packing the truck in front of an audience was amusing but we did feel a bit pressurised to do it quickly.  Getting out of Nsefu Sector proved more challenging than getting in but we did finally find a sign and were relieved that we were actually heading in the right direction.  We got to watch 2 male giraffes having a fight – they look so gentle normally!

Arrived at Kalovia early afternoon to be greeted by two camp attendants.  They were really keen for us to see their game drive so we headed straight off again.  The track seemed to peter out quite quickly but we managed to find a pod of hippos to watch – this really is remote Africa.  When we returned the lads were waiting and were really distressed that we had headed off in completely the wrong direction and had missed all the wildlife!  It would have to wait till tomorrow.

The lads lit our fire for us – considering we had raised money for Ripple Africa to stop people using 3 stone fires it was quite troubling to be cooking on one but dinner was cooked in next to no time. 

Day 51 Tena Tena Lodge

A quieter day in the park with no cat action.  The elephants were in the park in numbers though as well as buffalo, giraffes, bushbuck, puku, hippos, crocs and an amazing array of bird life. 

We did also finally get to see a big male kudu and like buses as soon as we had seen one another appeared.

Day 50 Tena Tena Lodge, South Luangwa

The camp routine is to be woken at 5.15 and breakfast at 5.30 cooked on a campfire on the river bank. We could see a group of hyenas surrounding two lionesses further down the river and we headed down there on our walking safari to take a closer look.   By the time we approached the hyenas were happily munching on the buffalo that the lions must have killed earlier but our presence disturbed the status quo.  The hyenas retreated and the lions re-established themselves as the owners of the carcass – it was fascinating and amazing to be able to get so close on foot.  The rest of the walk was a bit less dramatic but we still managed to see elephants and buffalo at close range.

Following a lovely lunch and siesta we headed back out for another evening game drive.  Our German companions wanted to see a porcupine and a chameleon – a very specific request that we thought had no hope of being fulfilled but we were wrong! 

  Ian was happy when we spotted a genet and a leopard.

Day 49 Tena Tena Lodge, South Luangwa

Woken at 5 am by the rest of the campsite - aggravating that for once we had no need to rush.  Enjoyed bacon and eggs for breakfast whilst one of the monkey’s enjoyed a slice of our bread – Ian was actually sitting at the table but it didn’t stop them from stealing food.

Arrived at Tena Tena at 11 am – we were concerned that we were far too early but instead we had arrived just in time for lunch at 11.30.  After a leisurely afternoon we reconvened for an afternoon / evening game drive – it was a nice change for someone else to do the driving.  The game viewing was superb.  Not only did we get to see a large pack of wild dogs but we were privileged to watch them hunting.  We also got to see lions eating their dinner of zebra, a den of hyena cubs plus a genet, honey badger and eagle owl. 

Day 48 Wildlife Camp, South Luangwa, Zambia

Arrived at the border at 10.30 am and surprisingly got through within an hour.  Malawi procedures were straightforward but the Zambia side was seriously confusing – immigration, customs, carbon tax and council levy were all in different buildings with no signage and some taxes were payable in dollars and others in Zambian Kwacha.  Somehow we got all the correct forms filled in and avoided the money changers who had the audacity to tell us the bank was shut even though we could see the door was open!

Managed to get to the shop in time to buy beer before it shut – Ian was very happy!  Good deed for the day by supplying water to a couple of ladies whose radiator had run dry, then onwards to the campsite. We were surprised to find the campsite was pretty full and struggled to find a space – we have been spoiled up til now – but we eventually found a space with a beautiful view over the river and watched the elephants come down for a drink whilst supping our own beverage.  Cooked a scrummy pork sweet and sour and were joined for dinner by two Germans who wanted to hear all about our trip to Tanzania.